via @luigi_torre
With gigantic white coral reefs, shells, sear horses and star fishes, Karl Lagerfeld imagined _as many designers this season_ an underwater world of fantasies for Chanel’s SS12. But this being the man responsible for giving this legendary french maison a fresh and young look each season, this was no regular under the sea theme interpretation. The literality of it all remained just on the magnificent set at the Grand Palais. Ok, and maybe on the shell shaped handbags and low heels of silver boots. But the main focus on this collection was to give a couture touch to simple, every day clothes. As the SS12 season came to an end, it was evident that a witty simplicity was the word of other for some of the most influential and sensible designers, and for Karl it was no different. Although some of the looks had too much going on, maybe in trying to reference the see creatures, it was when a simple dresses was cut to the most simple, yet alluring, silhouette that the collection gain forced. Or when a drop waist full skirts came paired with an almost slouchy pullover in creamy white, with just a black line doing the decoration, or even when the classic tailleur had its back cut out in an almost modernist way revealing what appeared to be a pearl spinal cord.
(more…)
via @luigi_torre
The thing with summer clothes _as in those imagined to be worn in hot days when all you just as this we are experiencing in Paris_ is that they must be the easiest garment you have in your closet. This said, it is easy to understand why the roomy pants and loose silk pajama tops Stella McCartney showed today are meant to be such a hit. They were everything the audience wanted to survive this Indian Summer. Plus, their were fun and all done with a witty sport edge and some fine tailoring. Actually, sports played a bit role in this collection, maybe because the designer is set to be the official designer of the British commission at London’s 2012 Olympic Games. Thus, the huge amount of mesh that first came hidden under her signature men’s tailoring, but soon taking over the whole outfit. There were sexy asymmetrical dresses with its hems embellished with neo-baroque lace and embroidering resulting in a fine contrasting to the dynamic sporty edge of this collection. In a second moment, men’s tie prints were maximized in silk pajama looks, but cut upon tailoring precision. Here too, the mesh fabrics appear, playing along with the tiny motifs. And then, for the finale, the two parts came together in some sexy looks, that were a nice continuation from last season successful doted outfits. This wasn’t a groundbreaking or stunning collection from Mrs. McCartney, but her singular voice and the way she managed to re-worked traditional code of femininity and dynamic sports gear, sure deservers some attention,
(more…)
via @luigi_torre
It wasn’t mermaids, as everybody was saying after yesterday terrific Givenchy’s show, filled with model whose first name dispense the last one _Natalia, Karolina and Gisele.. They were more like hybrid creatures from under the sea, with a sharp edged sensuality, that sometimes felt almost as aggressive as a starving white shark. For SS12 Riccardo Tisci looked, as many designers this season, for some under water inspiration _as if forthseeing that all we wanted here in Paris was to dive in a refreshing pool. But where as those many have stuck to fishes and coral reefs prints, the references where played subtly here, almost in an allusive way. It was through shape and texture (hence the eel and wolf fish skins) that the Italian designer referenced sea animals. There was a great focus on tailoring, now sharply cut, just as the big shark teeth that served as necklace. The silhouette was most of the time body hugging, but with some femininity touch _accentuating the hips and waits and without ever compromising or constricting the woman figure. Layers played an important role too, with some “streetness” and sporty edge attached to them. The overall effect was from simple clothes, given extra special treatment in cut, proportion, fit and materials, showing how consistently Riccardo Tisci is evolving as one of the most influent designer of our time.
(more…)
via @luigi_torre
A summer of clam and simplicity is probably how the next summer will be remembered. At least regarding this season’s collections here in Paris. At Hermès, Christophe Lemaire touched on those very principle, so in tune with the house codes, for his latest outing. In a elongated linear silhouette he featured loose dresses with graphical geometric cuts and patterns, his signature oriental tailoring, all in the house most expensive materials and craftsmanship. Oh, and there were also the scarf prints applied to shirts and dresses that suggest a great purity, both in its shapes and on their message and feel. Another interesting aspect of this second collection of Mr. Lemaire, is how global it seems. It’s simplicity and uncomplicated mix of different elements suggest that’s these clothes can be assimilated and worn by the richest consumers all over the world, regardless of their local costumes and weather.
(more…)
via @luigi_torre
We could sum up Haider Ackermann’s message at his SS12 collection by just looking at the models feet. Instead of high heels or any complex looking shoes, there were simple flat men’s brogue-like models, but with their back removed so they resemble a mule. This season the designer wanted things a bit more grounded, but no without a good dose of poetic and sensual emotion to it _after all, this is still an Ackermann’s collection. The slow passed show stared with a series of jewel tone suits, with voluminous drop crotched trousers and mannish blazers strictly cut. The men’s wear tailor is familiar territory here, but this time around it was key to bringing a somewhat toned down and possible feel to the collection, complete with its dandyish, slightly Ziggy Stardust discrete references. It strictness in cut and structure continued almost through the whole presentation, contrasting to the more languid and draped outings that were to follow. There were blouses and full skirt in liquid lamé, loose silk blouses and some hooded sporty vest made sophisticated in chiffon, there were both contemporary and reminiscent of some ancient culture. There was also a greater focus on separates, which made this collection even more approachable form the customer point of view. If in the past Mr. Ackermann lacked a sense of real possibility in this clothes _in the sense we couldn’t really think of a real woman in his clothes_ now the designer is starting the aimed directly in potential customers _and without loosing the creative emotional part he is so amazing at.
(more…)
