R. ROSNER A/W 2012 | SPFW DAY #2
For the very first time in SPFW line-up, Rodrigo Rosner presented a evening suit collection with looks just as exuberant as the ones we used to see on his past catlwalk shows for Casa de Criadores – with the same heavy embellishment as well. He was inspired by the mystery and beauty of moths, which lead him to extremely sensual but at the same time very dramatic pieces. There was this gothic undertone all along as the models exhibitted the looks on the runaway. Delicate laces and heavy broiderie were strategically placed over sheer fabrics in a refined play on the transparent and the opaque. Low-waisted dresses stood fitted to the body almost up to the knees, where the silhouette became suddenly fluid. Lenghts got shorter for the tulip shaped skirts, featuring appliquéd details and layers. Some purple and yellow tie dyed pieces provided one of the few moments of color in the show. We caught up with designer Rodrigo Rosner backstage to talk about the collection:
Which was the inspiration for this collection?Actually, in the last collection, which was a complete different inspiration, I had done a embroidery work which the result reminded me of insects, although it was not the reference for doing it. That reminded me of this book about moths a friend gave me and the book and its illustrations were the starting point for the collection.And how have this gone to the clothes?First I isolated the insect outlines, which made me see that moths are aesthetically very déco. It also led me to the color palette. I widened the insect wings and from these plain moldings I made draperies to create the volumes I applied to the clothes. It was all about working these concepts on the pieces.
There was some lightness in these dramatic looks, right?
Yes. There’s weightlessness, fluidity. But even for these lighter dresses there was something heavy providing a counterpoint, like a heavy embroidery work on the top. Actually one of the main features of this collection is these opposition forces.
And how about the materials you used?
I worked with the fabrics I always do, but in a different way. I used silk organza, chiffon, lace. There was also wool suede, which I haven’t used in a while, and camlet in three looks, which is a fabric that’s hard to find in Brazil. I found it interesting to work with these materials in a way that’s not obvious. For example, I used the lace to create a background texture effect.
And the color palette was really dark shaded…
Yes, it’s a dense universe I’m talking about after all. A lot of black, dark shades, brown, royal blue. Even in the purple or yellow looks there was this dark outline going along.
Past seasons you’d been showing your collections on another event – Casa de Criadores – and this is your debut on SPFW. This shift of events has changed the way you build or the way you plan your collection?
Maybe it will sound cheesy, but I made this collection with the same love and care. It’s still the same line of thinking and the same kind of product. Of course it’s a bigger collection, so it’s harder to be done, and when it’s about a large number of looks you have to be careful about sounding pleonastic or getting ‘more-of-the-same’. So it has to be done in a different way. But bigger event, same R. Rosner.
Who is the woman you design for?
It’s a young woman, around thirty years old, very contemporary. She knows about fashion and has some exuberance, but needs a costume for a formal event. I don’t think only of party dresses. Every woman needs, eventually, an incredible outfit for a night.
Any plans for the future?
Consolidating the bespoke work I develop on my studio and maybe, for the future, create a small and conceptual line for wholesale.
Photographed by Jorge Escudeiro