CORI A/W 2012 | SPFW DAY #1
Designers Gisela Nasser and Andrea Ribeiro found inspiration on the equestrian universe for the fall/winter collection. Equestrian sports had been the first access women had to tailoring outfits, so it turns out to be a proper path for the brand to keep the feminine tailoring work developed in the past seasons. Contrasted with wool fabrics, leather stands out among the materials, coming under different finishes and even in a tricot work enabled through laser cuts of leather stripes that are then put together by hand. Heavy accessories and horse rider accents on urban pieces set the tone of the show. We caught up backstage with Andrea to talk about the collection:
What’s the inspiration behind this fall/winter for Cori?
We looked at Cori’s own universe searching for a new approach on the classics, also pursuing to strengthen our design signatures. Then it lead us to horse riding, equestrian sports, saddlery and all this work on leather.
Collection featured very strong accessories, right? How was it?
Particularly for this collection we started foccusing on the accessories first, which them lead us to design clothes that would match these accessories. The clothes and the accessories somehow fit and work in harmony in the looks – we really enjoyed that and the fact that we were always thinking about a belt or a purse.
Does the Cori’s client remain in your mind along all the creation process?
Yes. And our client is something that’s really clear for us. The comercial clothes found on store as well as our runaway pieces are always though and designed for that client. And that client is a woman who works, who likes fashion and uderstands about quality and design.
Has this woman changed since last season?
I would say no. It’s the same woman in both collections – the summer version and now the winter version of our client. This Cori woman remains very feminine because that what she likes to be. Even working on tailoring, which could be something heavier, we try to give a light and feminine approach trough shapes and color, accessories. This woman doesn’t want to hide her feminine side.
But it was a different kind of sensuality this collection, right?
Yes, and I guess that’s mainly because of the season. It’s winter so we are talking about heavier fabrics, tighter threads. And then we felt like showing more skin, getting it by cuting the slits, expanding the necklines. It wasn’t like “let’s make a sexy collection”, it was more like a natural path.
Do you have a favorite piece on the show?
I have many, actually. But I could say the leather suits and the oversized jackets from the end of the show.
How do you see Cori within the next years?
We have a strategic planning that aims to make clear this kind of long-term sight. First thing we plan to do is to nail it more in your collections, hit the shows, always bringing these quality clothes to a real-life woman, who wants it for a fair price. We also plan to increase our number of clients, reaching a younger public.
Can we expect more tailoring?
Always. That’s our DNA and our know-how.
Photographed by Jorge Escudeiro
