ANIMALE A/W 2012 | SPFW DAY #1
For this fall/winter collection, designer Priscilla Darolt took us on a trip both in time and space. Pieces look back to the czarist Russia, reminding the very heyday of this once-mighty luxury Animale’s trying to bring back for the season. Inspiration came from the jewelry, which can be seen both on prints and encrusted gems details, Russian architecture and constructivist artists. It’s an unexpected move for a brand which became known for its experimental and futuristic approach on shapes and, mainly, on materials – seems Animale feels like going places. Runaway show started with low-waisted loose looks, mainly in silk, and then featured a heavier undertone with strong velvet accents. Color palette, build around earth shades, paprika and dark-green, remained very aware of global tendencies. We caught up backstage with Priscilla to talk about the collection:
What was the starting point for this fall/winter?
This trip to Russia I made last year. I’ve been to Moscow, St. Petersburg, and it’s amazing out there. Russia is definitely the inspiration behind this collection. I looked to Russian architecture and all that universe of czars. Jewelry were also very important reference, which can be felt even in the prints.
Past collections have shown a futuristic undertone, so it’s a bit unexpected see you referencing the past…
We had been working a lot with this technology and futurism issues, so this season it’s kind of the opposite. It’s more like a retro elegance, featuring craft work, embroidery, embroidered prints and velvet pieces. I thinks this come back of an old luxury it’s quite interesting for the brand. And shapes are loose, low-waist, which makes sense for this slouchy spirit of the brand.
But there is a technology behind the textiles you used, right?
Sure. To work with devore velvet requires a certain technological know-how, I mean, it’s a complicated technique, although it’s pretty much a craft thing.
Sheer looks and see-through details, always present on Cori’s collections, came more subtle this time. Is it something you were looking for this winter?
Yes, it’s about a veiled and subtle transparency. We worked with devore velvet, which is a heavy fabric, and the see-through effect came from it, so it gets more veiled.
What’s your favorite piece on the show?
The red velvet dress.
And how about Rosie Huntington-Whiteley on the casting?
Well, it is something that came from the whole team. We all decided for that cause we wanted to make it different, come up with something new for Animale’s shows.
Photographed by Jorge Escudeiro
