It was the Rock and Royalty book, by Gianni Versace, which inspired designer Valdemar Iódice for the winter. In fact there were some prints in reference to the Italian brand – i. e. phyton patterns – but Iódice failed in achieving Versace’s sensibility concerning application and dosage. If most of the catwalk looks remained under a black color palette, it was the metal embellishment of some pieces that stood out, as well as the full brass dress. The use of sheer fabric made part of the looks become a little bit sexier. In addition to the snake references, which also inspired the design of the shoes, rocker attitude was also present in the leather features and the studded details. Tailored coats were the proposals more over the season.
One might say that Osklen’s tricks of the trade was to place its eco-consciousness concern miles away from the hippie style and the eco-boring stereotype. For this fall/winter, designer Oskar Metsavaht decided to keep just that and somehow update this very ethos of the brand. The shapes were the ones we’re used to see on Osklen’s shows – mainly chain structured with neoprene, in a style Oskar has made his own in the Brazilian retail landscape. Mismatched materials ranged from e-fabrics – like different kinds of fish leather and eco silk – to cotton fleece, sheer knitwear, knit tricot and even fluo synthetic fur. Monochromatic looks alternated among geometric camouflage patterns and flower prints with a psychedelic Hawaiian accent. The embellishment metal work Oskar had been developing in the past seasons came in a punker attitude as appliquéd spikes in some hoods and footwear pieces and also as an almost entire metal embroidered look.
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As a move forward from the heavy styling of native-inspired SS12 collection, designer Eduardo Pombal brought a cleaner aesthetic to the runaway in some futuristic minimal style. Inspiration came from outer space; more specifically, from that timely moment in history, back in 69, when man walks on the moon. As usual, Eduardo went deep on the theme, scrutinising all the pictures of this moment in search of references of shapes, lines, colors and materials. Instead of prints, textures and shines in looks that ranged from white and gray to metallic shades. The silhouette spoke of the eighties and stood adjusted to the body, resulting in an elegant and staid look, still very feminine. We caught up backstage with Eduardo to talk about the collection:
David Mushegain travels the world, surfing, documenting interesting people and shooting for publications such as Paris Vogue, Japan Vogue, Interview and Muse.
“This series of black and white portraits is especially close to my heart. Over the years I have been blessed to remain close to many young artists, musicians and creators. This is just part of their story… As for me, I am constantly inspired by the people I meet. I love documenting and learning. I guess you could say it?s my goal in life to nurture and record the lives of the amazing people I come across. It?s a never-ending project. Every day I see someone I want to photograph or speak to. So many times I will be driving my car, riding my bike or walking down the street and I?ll pass someone who inspires me, so I turn around and run after them and tell them how beautiful they are and how I would love to photograph them. It?s nonstop. It?s everything that I am. A friend once asked me what my favorite lyrics from a Grateful Dead song were. “So many roads to ease my soul” I replied, and then asked him what his was. “Inspiration” he said. I liked that a lot. I don?t know why I remember that conversation, but I do. Those lyrics speak volumes…”
David Mushegai
